What is the merge between a MacBook with a busted screen and a desktop LCD panel? This:

I figured two names for it, a Macenstein or a FrankenBook (yeah I know, both are damn ugly, suggestions welcome!). I happened to drive over my one-week-old MacBook with my 30-minute-old Viano van as I tested the parking sensors at the dealer, and the screen cracked. Obviously, the Apple retailer refused to service it under warranty, and quoted around 700 Euro for a new LCD, when the entry-level MacBook costs 1000 Euro, it seems a pretty ridiculous price to pay.

Out of desperation, I had the idea of removing the screen entirely, and using the remaining portion of the MacBook as a desktop – after all, it still had a working hard drive, DVD drive, touchpad and keyboard, so a few dozen screws later, this was the result:

As you can see, the cables that connect to the display’s backlight and LCD circuit are still there, as are the three wires that come out of the Airport wireless card and lead to the patch antennas on the lid. I still have to put some connectors on these so I can drive external antennas.

A friend of mine just saw this thing, and wondered why they are not manufactured commercially – it’s an ideal space saver – computer, keyboard and mouse in one small piece that sits in front of a nice LCD display, and which comes with built-in UPS to save you from power failures.

Edit: Removed the Lapsktop name suggestion, it sound even more crappy than the others, and like a Finnish swear word.

You probably have seen the video on YouTube about a molten Fonera, apparently due to overheating, which shows the plastic case completely deformed. Gizmodo (also in spanish) and other sites are also reporting on this. As usual, Fon has censored the post on their forums that broke the story, but alas, thanks to their partners at Google, here is a cached version. Even Martin Varsavsky seems worried about this. It seems the damage is obviously from heat, but could it have come from the Fonera itself?

I, and others, have our doubts about wether this video is a fake stunt, or a true story. It is true that the Fonera overheats, much more than would be expected from a consumer-electronics product, but to the point of causing physical damage to the plastic case?

The heat problem

Heat in electronics mostly comes from dropping voltage by converting current into it, in our case, the voltage regulator in the Fonera drops 5V to 3.3V at 500mA, resulting in the dissipation of 850mW. That’s right, we are dumping 850mW right into the atmosphere in the form of heat. This brings the operating conditions very close to the maximum ratings for this regulator, which has a maximum rated thermal resistance of 90ºC/W, my calculations put the operating conditions at 88ºC/W. Additionally, the wireless section of the Fonera is also converting a lot of energy into heat.

The measurements

After I finished my tests, I got a comment from Pobletewireless, regarding his own measurements of the heat problem, which are shown in very cool thermographs (no pun intended!) – much nicer than my rather rudimentary method.

I measured the temperature of the Fonera using a thermocouple connected to a Fluke 123 Scopemeter via an 80TK thermocouple module. The thermocouple was placed in between the heatsink and RF shield, the case closed, and the Fonera powered, as can be seen in this picture:

After 10 minutes operating normally, the temperature had risen to an average of 72ºC, with a peak of 80ºC.

The second batch of measurements were performed drilling four small holes to allow the thermocouple into the casing, the locations are shown in the following picture:

Maximum temperature at one corner was 43ºC. Next, an attempt was made to melt the white lid of the Fonera, by exposing it to a high temperature airflow from a paint-stripping gun, and at the same time, applying slight pressure from below. The thermocouple was used to measure at which point the plastic became maleable, and deformation started. At around 100ºC, the plastic was soft enough that a solid object could change its shape – this is in line with ABS plastic thermal properties, which state a deflection temperature around 100ºC, depending on specific material composition.

As the deflection point test resulted as expected, the lid was then exposed to an airflow at 280ºC for two minutes. The result of this exposure is shown in the pictures below:

It’s obvious that some deformation has taken place, with discoloration and charring on the point where heat was directly applied. However, the front side of the lid had mostly retained its shape.

Conclusions

The Fonera does indeed run very hot, much hotter than it should, if anything, for the good of the internal parts. Electronic components are sensitive to heat, with maximum ratings given by each manufacturer in terms of storage and operating conditions. The higher the temperature, the lower the service life of any given component. Some are affected more than others, most notably, electrolytic capacitors have a high sensitivity to heat, as it can evaporate the electrolyte quicker, causing it to fail. The capacitors in the Fonera are made by Taicon, a taiwanese manufacturer, and are max-rated for 105ºC. From the datasheet [PDF], at this temperature, the capacitor will fail after some 2000 hours, around 83 days. Following Arrhenius’ Law, and since the area around the capacitors was found to be at around 52ºC, their expected life would be 7800 hours, or about 325 days – what a coincidence, almost a full year, after which your warranty has expired. Comparing the Fonera to a Meraki Mini, one realises that there is a serious design flaw, as apart from the Mini having a switched-mode regulator, the wireless section shares exactly the same design as the Fonera. The temperature measured outside the casing of the wireless section indicates that the junction temperature of the components inside has to be ridiculously high. So, one conclusion is that the Foneras will eventually fail due to overheating, and it will probably happen sooner than later.

On the deformation / melting video – in my opinion, it’s not real. At least, it couldn’t have happened without the Fonera reaching temperatures around the whole casing that would have caused some components to blow up (for example, the capacitors). The Fonera could not have undergone such an extreme temperature, and still function as shown on the video. The temperature gradient between the heatsink and one corner of the case is almost 2:1, thus, to reach a deformation temperature of say 200ºC at the corner, the heatsink must have been running at 400ºC! A final bit of evidence – the sticker. If you look closely at the video, the sticker on the bottom of the Fonera looks almost unscathed. Here is a picture of what it looks like after applying a 250ºC airflow for 30 seconds, which causes the plastic to deform:

Obviously, a more prolongued exposure would have damaged it even more. In all honesty, I would love to get more details from the guy who made the video, as it stands right now, I’d call it a hoax.

I wrote before about the Logitech MX5000 Bluetooth keyboard & mouse combo, and there are plenty of posts around the web that confirm that the product sucks – badly.

To recap a bit, the problems are random reboots of the keyboard, disconnections of keyboard and mouse, erratic mouse behavior (including spontaneous motion of the cursor), and repeated keystrokes after the keyboard has not been used for a few minutes (resulting in things like “aaaaaaaafter the news…”). In all, a very frustrating and annoying experience, for a rather expensive combo. Logitech seem to acknowledge the problem, but I have not yet seen any form of update that could fix this, and my theory is that the problem cannot be fixed with a simple software update.

Declaring the keyboard and mouse defunct, I performed an autopsy, which revealed a few interesting facts (details after the jump):

• The Bluetooth dongle has a very very strange RF design – it uses a normal groundplane meander PCB antenna, but then it has a copper-wire loop antenna on top.
• Dongle and keyboard use Bluetooth chipsets from different manufacturers (CSR and Broadcom), in theory interoperable, in reality…well.
• The touchpad uses a very crappy sensor design, which explains the lack of responsiveness and uselesness of the scrolling controls.

Let’s start with the dongle. Below are a couple of photos of the opened device, the first with the loop antenna in place, the second with it removed, showing the meander. If someone with better RF knowledge than me can explain why this makes sense, I would be grateful. The design of the loop itself is wrong for 2.4GHz, having a wire length about 10 times larger than what would be required given its size.

(more…)

The guys at Pobletewireless have been busy with the Fonera lately, and have now posted a step-by-step hack to add a DB9 connector that allows easy access to the built-in serial port, without having to make IDC cable headers and so on. [Link]

The hack gives access to the console, with which you can do all sorts of nice and interesting things.

Today I was throwing old stuff away from my parents-in-law’s house, when I came across a Casio PB-1000 personal computer, which belonged to my wife. She told me ‘oh, that’s just a calculator I used at school, it used to be good for trig’. In fact, it is a very capable machine (in its time, now your TV’s remote has more processing power than this thing!), it has 8kB of RAM, an RS-232 and floppy drive port, graphic touch screen, and runs for 55 to 100 hours on 3 AA batteries. What really strikes me opening the device is that the keyboard is very similar to the ZX81′s, with all the most used BASIC commands overlaid on each key, and accessible using the shift key. Here is a picture of this ancient device, which brings back many fond memories, such as getting Pong to work:

There is a wealth of information about the PB-1000 on Andreas Wichmann’s site.

Went to my local Vodafone store to pick up the new Huawei E220 HSDPA USB modem, which with a 49 Euro monthly contract gives you 1GB of transfer at 1Mbps maximum, and free mobile to fixed landline calls – pretty good deal if you ask me. For 59 Euro you get 5GB of transfer, at the full 3.8Mbps that HSDPA offers. These are theoretical rates, as they will depend on a number of factors, such as how many people are also using the same cell, your coverage and the quality of the link.
We can argue all we want about how convenient WiFi is, being omnipresent et al, but in reality, it’s rather hard to get connected while on the road. Let’s examine the following scenarios, and you tell me the chances of getting connected over WiFi:

• Riding the train or bus home.
• Getting a lift from a friend in his/her car.
• Opening your laptop at a random location (cafeteria, bar, etc. that you haven’t before scouted for open WiFi).
• On a plane, waiting for the next free takeoff slot that you hope the pilot won’t miss because he was checking the fatness of his wallet.

Let’s be honest – free open WiFi is great once you have identified the locations where you can get connected, such as a friend’s house or the local coffee shop. Other solid commercial alternatives make it easier to find WiFi, as they tend to be present at well-known locations. Walk into any Starbucks or hotel, and you’re bound to find at least for-pay wireless.
For me, on the 30 minutes to 1 hour it takes to get home on the train or bus, being able to get connected is great. The convenience of simply opening the Mac and getting online beats the guesswork of WiFi. I tried getting the Mac working with my Nokia N93 over Bluetooth, but it was just too unstable – one day it worked, the next simply refused to even connect. A more in-depth review of the device is coming, once I get a chance to roam about with it for a while.

So far, installation on the Mac was pretty straightforward, download the setup package from Vodafone’s site (they don’t tell you this in the manual), which then enables the modem as a networking device. If you don’t follow this step, it can get recognized as a storage device, which is not particularly useful for a modem. The one thing I don’t understand is why it comes with a miniUSB cable that ends in two USB connectors, my guess is it’s power-related (some USB ports don’t provide the full 500mA they are supposed to provide).

The Register reports that BitTorrent has come to deals with three consumer electronics manufacturers in order to develop devices with an embedded BitTorrent client, thus bypassing the PC and freeing it to do other tasks. This would be specially useful to laptop users, who don’t want their mobile computer immobilized by a large download.

What do you do when you need to embed WiFi into a project really quick? You look for OEM modules – one of the best manufacturers being Digi. They make, amongst other variations, the Wi-ME, a small box that has a RTOS chip (it can be made to run Linux apparently) and the WiFi adapter, with a serial interface and GPIOs that go to your application. In essence, you can bridge a serial port to a TCP or UDP port and stream data to the internet, all without messy wires!

After looking at the ordering page, I duly contacted the spanish distributor Matrix. I needed two modules by this last Monday, and so I requested to have the devices shipped by Friday last week. It all turned out into one big mess, with vague excuses about not being able to ship due to warehouse problems, or that the proforma could not be generated – and so I could not pay, and they could not ship…to cut a long story short, I got the units on Tuesday.

It usually is not a problem to have a shipping delay, but in this case, I arranged a meeting with the mechanical engineers working on the project, in order for them to see the device and fit it into the 3D plastics project. They actually measure the parts, as they say working from datasheets can usually spell trouble, so ideally they would take them away after the meeting. Had Matrix simply said “we cannot send it until Monday”, I would have arranged the meeting on Wednesday – no worries. But, as it frequently happens, they wanted to look good, without having the solid ground under their feet to do so.

When a company makes a commitment, whatever it may be, it has to stick to it. And when the costumer calls, obviously pissed off at the poor performance and the mount of problems he has landed on, you have to be hellbent on fixing the situation. If the person answering the phone cannot handle the situation, he/she must be trained to transfer the call to someone who can.

What did I do? I emailed the CEO, Joseph Dunsmore. His email address is not published on Digi’s site, but if you look on the Management Team page, and scroll down a bit, Jan McBride’s email is displayed. It was a case of formatting Joseph’s name in the same manner as Jan’s email, send the diatribe, and wait. The next day, I got a reply from Joseph, telling me he would follow up the case with Digi’s Managing Director in Europe. Not three hours had passed, and I got a call from Digi’s top man in Spain, who was very supportive and understanding. By this time, I had been so smoothed over, that I really didn’t want to complain anymore! The conversation ended up very well, with Digi offering their full support on our development, and a visit arranged sometime next week.

Would I recommend Digi to anyone deciding about whether to use their products? Absolutely!

Yesterday I read some news about Chumby, a new WiFi device being released soon, costing $150, and which looks like an alarm clock on steroids. It features a color screen, the ability to run widgets, hackable hardware, and a squishterface (just made that up, to try to describe the squeeze sensor that the soft case uses to provide user input).

The company behind the Chumby actively promotes hacking the product in any way you want, so this could become another Roomba, albeit cooler (yes, I know, the Roomba moves, so what!). I have signed up to try and get an early sample, let’s see if they consider my arguments.

A few words of constructive criticism – when creating an account, the country drop-down list is not in alphabetical order, so you spend quite a bit of time trying to find yours (US users will have it easy, as it is the default). Additionally, once the steps are completed, you are asked to enter the device ID and give it a name, after which you end up staring at a white page with the big black words: “Application error (Rails”. Whatever that means.

Last night I was watching a DVD on my MacBook Pro, and remembered that I still kept a Motorola Bluetooth stereo headset from the time I was working at SouthWing and we designed such devices.

Bluetooth stereo headsets use a profile called Advanced Audio Distribution Profile (A2DP), which allows them to receive medium-quality audio at 16kHz from compatible devices. Most USB Bluetooth dongles sold recently have the profile in their drivers, and there are some mobile phones from Nokia, Samsung and Motorola that also feature this profile. The advantage is that you can listen to music wirelessly, and also control the player from the headset, as they feature the usual forward, back, play and pause controls.

Once I found the headset, I switched on Bluetooth on the Mac, and started the pairing process. The headset was recognised just fine, and pairing completed, but I noticed that it had been connected as a Handsfree device, with A2DP nowhere to be found. Since there doesn’t seem to be a method of connecting the headset permanently, so the audio is always routed from the Mac to it, the attempt was frustrated – I couldn’t even listen to the DVD in low-quality audio.

Why has Apple left out this profile, is it a blunder, or a calculated approach? As to this date, Apple doesn’t manufacture or resell any Bluetooth wireless headsets (only one can be found at their store, and it comes with a dongle for the iPod, so it doesn’t count). So, why would they have an interest in adding the A2DP profile, so that we could use any other headset? If they are in the process of designing their own, they might want to keep the profile away from Macs until they launch it.

Then again, if we give Apple a vote of confidence that they are not that insidious, it could be a blunder. And a big one. Windows has been able to work with A2DP headsets since late 2005, so they have had plenty of time to add the profile to their Bluetooth stack.

A few myths and facts about Bluetooth, versions and profiles for the curious:

1. Profiles are mostly independant of the Bluetooth version. It is perfectly possible to have A2DP in a V1.2 Bluetooth device, just the same as a V2.0 + EDR can have just two profiles and miss many of the usual ones – the mix is up to the manufacturer and driver supplier.

2. EDR stands for Enhanced Data Rate – this does not increase the range, just increases data throughput from around 700kbps to around 2.1kbps, by using a different modulation scheme. The Bluetooth protocol and profiles stay just the same – the advantage is that since data takes almost 1/3rd of the time to send compared to non-EDR devices, there is a considerable power consumption reduction.

3. “Device Y doesn’t support profile Z”. Again, this is up to the manufacturer, and it’s hard to add new profiles, specially in embedded devices. Some chipsets use masked ROM, which means that the Bluetooth stack, profiles and other settings are burned at the time the silicon is printed – so, no software updating on these. Masked ROM is considerably cheaper, although has an initial setup cost of $100.000, so it’s only good for high-volume production runs. The chips can drop $1 to $2 compared to the flash EEPROM counterparts.

As an example of a very poorly implemented Bluetooth solution we can find the Logitech MX5000 keyboard and mouse combo – it sucks. A lot. I am preparing a review that will try to investigate why it does the stupid things it does, such as repeating the first letter you type when it wakes up a dozen times, or why the mouse starts wondering around the screen as if it was possessed by a poltergeist.